Bon in Dolpo: Religion and Traditions - Dolpo Caravan Treks

Bon in Dolpo: Religion

A short glimpse of Bon religion

Bon religion can be classified into three types. They are prehistoric Bon, Yungdrung Bon, and New Bon. The activities of prehistoric Bon are akin to central Asian shamanism. Secondly, Yungdrung Bon was founded by Buddha Tonpa Shenrab, who lived on this earth many thousands of years before Buddha Shakyamuni in the land of Zhang Zhung.

During the 8th century, the king of Tibet, Trisong Detsen, invited Padmasambhava or Guru Rinpoche, abbot Boddhisattva, and some priests from China. With the king's and ministers' agreement, the abolishment of Yungdrung Bon was initiated, and when the Yungdrung Bon was on the verge of declination, Bonpo lama, and priests started to hide the crucial texts as treasures in secure caves. A few texts were modified with Indian Buddhism. In the meantime, some Bonpo adapted both the yungdrung Bon and some parts of Indian Buddhist rituals and emerged as a New Bon.

The Yungdrung Bon, founded by the Budha Tonpa Shenrab, is subdivided into Dho (the path of renunciation), Ngag (the path of transformation), and Dzogchen (the path of liberation). These practices have remained intact from Budha Tonpa Shenrab until now and are still practiced by monks, nuns, yogis, and yogis. It is alive and unchanged in Himalayan regions.

Till the 8th century, Dolpo was part of Zhang Zhung province. During the eighth Century, Tibet king Trisong Detsen (755–797 A.D) assassinated the last king of Zhang-Ligmikya, and Dolpo became a free zone. In the 10th century, Dolpo was under the kingdom of Purang, and later on, it was under Los (Upper Mustang) and Jumlang (Jumla).

In the 18th century, the King of Gorkha, Prithvi Narayan Shah, started the unification of Nepal, and Dolpo also became a unified part of the country.

Bonpo community in Dunai:

Starting from Dunai, the district headquarters of Dolpa, there is a Bonpo community—Dolpo Bon School and a beautiful Bonpo Stupa. This community was established with the assembly of Bonpo lamas, prominent people from different Bonpo villages of Dolpa. Old local people used to say that a Bonpo Lama blessed this place by leaving a footprint on a rock, and people named the place Lama Palio in Nepali, which means the footprint of the Lama.

Bonpo village in Barle (Tichurong):

The second Bonpo community near Dunai is Barle Village. There is a principal village monastery named Yungdrung Shuktsal Gon, and every Lama and Yoshi has temples in their houses. The old monastery and some stupas are more than five hundred years old. The present head Lama of the monastery is Lama Namkha Wangden. There are also some holy relics of great yogis in the monastery. The pilgrimage site of the Holy Mount Riwo Walber was blessed by the deity Takla Meber and used to be the meditation and retreat center for many lamas and yogis. So, once a year, many Bonpo and Buddhist peoples from different villages participate in the annual circumambulation of the holy mountain. There are customs to perform various rituals annually and seasonally.

On the way to Dho Tarap, there is a ruin of the ancient Bon monastery Merbu Samten Ling, which used to be the main monastery of the Treton lineage.

Bonpo community in Dho Tarap:

Dho Tarap village has a Bonpo monastery called Deden Phuntsok Ling. In ancient times, many Bonpo Dzogchen yogis spent their whole lives in Tarap and attained Rainbow bodies. Around the monastery, many old stupas and prayer stones are engraved with the three hearts mantras. The present head Lama of the monastery is Lama Yonten Pasang. There is another monastery called Riwo Bumpa Gonpa. This monastery is shared by both Bonpos and Buddhists, and the wall paintings in the main monastery contain both Bon and Buddhist divinities.

The stupa of Yungdrung Wobar is an essential and old Bon stupa. In ancient times, Zhang Zhung Yogi, Tonggung Thuchen, Debon Gyimtsa Machung, and many Bonpo came to Tarap and blessed the sacred mountain Pawo Drungnga. There is a cave hermitage on the mountainside and the footprint of yogi Tonggyung Thuchen.

Bonpo community in Tsarka:

From Tarap through Jyagola la pass, we get to Tsarka village. There is an old Phuntsok Ling and a new Phuntsok Ling Bonpo monastery. The original or old monastery was isolated from the village, so it was dangerous, as bandits often attacked there. Therefore, a new monastery was re-established near the village. Menri Ponlob Trinle Nyima Rinpoche, the second most important leader of the Bonpo world, is also from Tsarka village. The present head Lama of the monastery is Geshe Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen Rinpoche.

Samling Monastery in Bicher:

The Samling monastery was founded by the great Dzogchen yogi and zhangzhung nyengyud lineage holder Yangton Gyaltsen Rinchen in 1183 AD. Since early times, this monastery has been the principal educational center of Bon Monastery in Dolpo. Sutra, Tantra, and Dzogchen(great perfection) were taught in the monastery. There are many Holy Scriptures, statues, chortens, and relics of several great Tantra and Dzogchen practitioners. Yangton Sherab Tenzin is the current lineage-holder Lama of the monastery.

Tha-Sung Tso Ling monastery in Tso village:

Treton Tsewang Tsultrim founded this monastery in the 15th century. It also used to be the center of the Bonpo monastery of Lower Dolpo. This monastery is on the bank of NepalNepal'sest lake, Phuksumdo. This lake is holy for Bonpo followers as it was blessed by many Treton lamas. Geshe Samdup Nyima and Geshe Sherab Gocha are taking responsibility for the monastery.

Bonpo community in Pukmo village;

The villavillage'sance is the holy Zijyi Wober stupa, which has a beautiful mural of the Bon deity Kunsang Gyalwa Gyatso, a peaceful form of the wrathful deity Walse Ngampa.

In the past, there used to be a shrine, and many animals were regularly sacrificed to the local spirit. Treton Lama Tsewang Tsultrim subdued the spirit and built Namgyal Lhakhang to stop the sacrifice and start peaceful offerings taught by Budha Tonpa Shenrab. Near this village, there is also Pugmo Dechen Ling Monastery, Thegchen Rabgye Ling Monastery, and Shugri Nyishar, a retreat and meditation centre.

In a gist, there are also a few Bon monasteries in significantly lower parts of the Dolpo such as Tsalung Sridgyal monastery a few hours away from Tripurakot, Monri Zursum monastery in Khalibon, and Yungdrung Drodul Ling monastery in   Hurikot.

With a complete anti-clockwise (Way of Bonpo) circulation of Dolpo, we can visit the holy Bonpo pilgrimage site and monasteries of Dolpo.

Reference books:

1. Gyalshen gi Dungrab by Yanggom Migyur Gyaltsen
2. Bayul Bongi Kyareng Sarpa book of Nepal Bon Buddhist Federation